53.	BIG CHIWAUKUM
	Elevation:	8,081 feet/2463 meters.
	Rating:	Class 3 or 4.
	Distance:	About 17 miles round trip.
	Elevation Gain:	About 5,300 feet from trailhead to summit.
	Time:	About 6-8 hours from trailhead to summit.
	Maps:	USGS Chiwaukum Mountains; Green Trails No. 177 (Chiwaukum Mtns).

General Description

Big Chiwaukum

Big Chiwaukum is the highest of the Chiwaukum Mountains, a subrange of modestly craggy older peaks lying on the high divide separating Icicle Creek and the Nason Creek-Wenatchee River drainage, including Snowgrass Mountain. The mountain forms a long north-south crest, rising just above 8,000 feet at its midpoint, with a glacier remnant below its precipitous east face. Despite its size and elevation, Big Chiwaukum is an unassuming peak. Although visible from surrounding high ridges and summits, it does not stand out like other nearby peaks, and is hardly noticed with the giants of the Stuart Range jutting up so near to the south, and literally overlooked in favor of the snowy volcanoes rising to the north. Perhaps that explains why only a handful of climbers reach its summit each year. The mountain deserves to be more popular, not only because of its height and regional importance, but also because it is fairly easy to approach and is an interesting, rocky scramble despite some tedious meadow hiking. It is a feasible spring climb from Frosty Pass, as soon as the Icicle River Road is passable, or via US-2 and Wildhorse Creek Trail, the shorter approach. The ascent is strenuous, with some loose rock scrambling on the summit ridge, but rewarding. Summit views include the Stuart Range, Mount Rainier, the Snoqualmie Crest and Monte Cristo peaks, Mount Daniel, Glacier Peak and the DaKobed Range, the Entiat Mountains and Bonanza Peak.

How to Get There

[Map of Big Chiwaukum Approach]

The fastest approach to Big Chiwaukum is via White Pine and Wildhorse Creek Trails from US Highway 2 east of Stevens Pass. Drive US-2 to the White Pine Road turnoff, about 14 miles east of Stevens Pass and 21 miles west of Leavenworth. Follow White Pine Road (FS Road 6950) 3.8 miles to the trailhead at road's end. A Northwest Forest Pass is required. Alternatively, approach via Frosty Pass Trail and Grace Lake, as described in the Snowgrass Mountain chapter.

Route Description

[Summit Ridge Detail]     [West Face of Big Chiwaukum]

The route described is the NW Ridge, which is probably the fastest route to the summit. It is a long, strenuous meadow hike and rock scramble, feasible in a day for strong climbers who start early, although some will prefer a two-day climb with a camp at Grace Lake.

Hike up Whitepine Trail (FS Trail 1582) about 2.3 miles to Wild Horse Trail junction. Follow Wild Horse Trail (FS Trail 1592) another 6.5 mostly uphill miles to the first stream crossing in the broad meadow basin directly west of the peak, elevation ~5,400 feet. By summer this stream is the last reliable water source. About 30 feet past the stream, a way trail forks off to the left and leads up into the basin. Follow this trail briefly; when the path is lost amid game trails and brush, hike cross-country through the meadows toward the mountain. Several routes are feasible. A proven route climbs the NW ridge, ascending leftward out of the basin and up the steep, flowery meadow ridge directly up towards the mountain’s craggy NW shoulder. At ~6,700 feet elevation, stay left of a subalpine fir thicket in an open, shallow gully to avoid a bushwhack through some bristly firs. At the head of the gully, where the going gets rocky, scramble rightward up loose scree ledges and dirt gullies, following goat trails, to gain the rocky ridge crest on the right. Continue up rocky meadow slopes just right of the craggy ridge crest several hundred feet to a headwall below the northern peak of the summit ridge. A gully leads directly to the headwall at the north end of the summit ridge, a direct snow climb in early season but rocky and loose later on. A meadow ridge on the right side of this gully offers a feasible route as well.

Summit rocks, Big Chiwaukum

Regardless of which route taken to get there, from the base of the headwall, at a low band of orange-streaked rock, traverse rightward, scrambling across blocky ledges and gullies toward the summit pinnacle. Two rock ridges must be crossed. The first involves climbing a short rock step, possibly a Class 5 move but not exposed. The second presents an imposing 40-foot slab, but may be passed by traversing low and climbing a short step to gain an easier gully. Once past these aretes, a rising traverse on loose rock leads to a sharp notch just north of the summit pinnacle, from where a short rocky scramble gains the narrow, exposed summit. The upper ridge traverse is Class 2 and 3 scrambling with careful routefinding, but could involve Class 4 and 5 rock if the easiest route is not followed.

To descend, either downclimb the route, or traverse off via the Lake Grace route described below. In early season, glissading down snow slopes and gullies can save considerable time, but be careful of sliding over a cliff or into rocks. When snow conditions are ripe, the NW gully provides a 2,000-foot ski descent for experienced ski mountaineers.

Options

[Topo of Big Chiwaukum East Face Variation]

On the NW Ridge route, the second arete on the summit ridge may be passed via an interesting, exposed traverse on the east face. When you reach the arete, scramble leftward up a talus basin to a sharp notch overlooking the broad east face snowfield. Downclimb a short, exposed step to a ledge, then traverse about 80 feet leftward along the exposed ledge to where it ends. Climb up a slabby, left-facing corner some 25 feet to a higher ledge, then traverse about 20 feet down and left on this ledge until directly below the upper notch. Climb the steep corner/gully another 20 feet or so to the notch. This variation is at least Class 4, maybe low Class 5, and is fairly exposed in places, on mostly sound rock. It is steep and exposed enough to justify belaying and placing occasional protection.

Glacier Peak from Big Chiwaukum

An easier but longer route up Big Chiwaukum is via Lake Grace and the SW Slope. Most who climb this route do so as part of a 2 or 3-day trip including an ascent of Snowgrass Mountain. Two approaches are feasible. The easiest is to hike the old fishermens' trail from Wildhorse Creek Trail to Lake Grace, elevation 6,242 feet, a convenient base camp for the climb. This trail begins about a mile north of Frosty Pass, 8 miles in via Whitepine trailhead. From Lake Grace, ascend steep gullies and meadow slopes east to Upper Grace Lake basin. The most direct route begins from the SE shore of Lake Grace and climbs the obvious stream gully to the east. The stream gully is too steep and narrow in the middle, but can be bypassed via a gully on the left or a hanging meadow on the right. Once in the upper basin, climb leftward up talus and scree slopes to a rounded ridge. Alternatively, approach as for the NW Ridge route into the basin, but hike all the way up the basin and exit rightward (SE) up steep meadow and scree slopes to gain this ridge. From here, ascend talus and scree slopes up and left, then traverse northward below the summit ridge rocks, eventually crossing a wide, dirty scree gully within sight of the summit. The most direct route climbs a short Class 3 slab then traverses ledges leftward to the upper right edge of a steep, loose gully. Enter the gully and climb to its top, where a short Class 3 or 4 step gains the summit rocks. The gully is steep and has loose rock, and is exposed at its top; only one person at a time should climb in the gully to minimize rockfall exposure. From the top of the gully, traverse ledges left and up to a short gully that leads to the notch just south of the summit, from where easier, exposed scrambling completes the ascent.

There appear to be several possible winter and spring routes up the West Face, via gullies that in late season would be nightmarishly loose and dangerous. These gullies would be highly avalanche prone, but during stable spring snow conditions would provide direct routes to the summit ridge.

Beckey's guide refers to a route ascending the east slopes of Big Chiwaukum from Glacier Creek. This route appears straightforward, but has a longer approach hike and more rock climbing difficulties than the west-side routes. Refer to Cascade Alpine Guide for route details.

An ascent of Snowgrass Mountain via the steep snowfield on the NE face can be made from Upper Grace Lake as part of a traverse from Big Chiwaukum. Refer to the Snowgrass Mountain chapter for route details.

Precautions

The west and eastside gullies and slopes are highly avalanche prone in winter and spring. Beware of cornices on the summit ridge. The summit ridge of Big Chiwaukum is craggy and has loose rock; the east face is very steep and exposed. The easiest summit routes involve Class 3 scrambling, but routefinding is challenging, where a wrong turn could lead to Class 4 and 5 climbing on loose rock. Although the easier scrambling routes are not especially precarious, loose rock is abundant, especially in gullies. Be careful not to knock rocks loose on other climbers. A helmet is recommended; bring an ice ax if snow lingers. Crampons may be useful in early season. A rope and light rack are recommended in case a belay or rappel is desired.

References

Cascade Alpine Guide.
Hiking the Alpine Lakes Wilderness.

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